| Head for the Hill Country Austin to San Antonio, Texas Round up those notions that Texas is only cowboys, cactus, and flat-as-a-pancake terrain. In the land of the longhorns, perhaps the only thing that rises as high as a Texan's state pride is the lush land that makes up the Hill Country. Despite the "Don't mess with Texas" signs lining this route, the locals are friendly, and the driving is easy. Western art, cowboys, and history are all here in the Editor's Picks, shown in bold, our way of sharing with you those special things we call "Best of the Road". Use our route planner to find hotels for your next trip. |  |  | ||||||||
BEST OF THE ROAD:
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| Bob Bullock Texas State History Museum 1800 N Congress Ave Austin, TX 78711 Call (866) 369-7108  |  |  Experience the spirit of the Lone Star State and learn the history of Texas at the Bob Bullock Texas State History Museum, just a couple blocks north of the Texas State Capitol building. You can't miss it: Just look for the gigantic bronze Lone Star sculpture in front of the main entrance. The three floors of exhibits and theaters contain hundreds of artifacts from around the state and multiple interactive media experiences, that tell the state's story through three main themes: Land, Identity and Opportunity. Highlights include the "Texas," an AT-6 WW II training plane; a Karankawa canoe; a cannon and trade beads excavated from a French colonial ship that sank off the Texas coast in the late 1600s; a Tipi Theater production telling the story of the Comanche; and a program in the Revolution Theater which describes Texas's fight for independence from Mexico.Austin's only IMAX theater shows the signature feature presentation, TEXAS: The Big Picture, which captures the essence of the state on the giant screen, plus a variety of large-format nature and music films. The Texas Spirit Theater on the second floor, a multimedia venue with three screens, surprises visitors with an array of special effects during the 15-minute presentation, "The Star of Destiny." On your way out, look for the real Texas Ranger badge hidden in the vibrant and colorful terrazzo floor in the museum's rotunda.The museum is open Monday to Saturday 9 AM to 6 PM, Sunday noon to 6 PM. Closed on New Year's Day, Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve, and Christmas. | | |||||||
| Harry Ransom Center Austin, TX 78713 Call (512) 471-8944 |  |  Gorgeous, highly detailed 25-foot-high etched windows encase the Harry Ransom Center, located on the southwest edge of the University of Texas campus. The etchings of Pablo Picasso's eyes, Dorothea Lang, the cover of a Charlie Parker album, and many others give a good glimpse of what is inside. The 40,000-square-foot space includes a gallery, a theater, and a reading room featuring the center's seven main collections.More than 45 million items comprise the diverse collection, which includes 19th- and 20th-century manuscripts, rare books, photography, art, costumes, music, film collections, and other artifacts and collectibles. The gallery exhibition changes about every six months, but there are always two permanent displays: a Gutenberg Bible (one of only five in the United States) and the world's first permanent photograph, created by pioneering photographer Joseph Niepce in 1836.The galleries are open Tuesday, Wednesday, and Friday, 10 AM to 5 PM; Thursday, 10 AM to 7 PM; Saturday and Sunday, noon to 5 PM; closed Monday. The reading/viewing rooms are open Monday to Friday, 9 AM to 5 PM; Saturday, 9 AM to noon; closed Sunday. | | |||||||
| SoCo District (South Congress Avenue) 1400 South Congress Ave. Austin, TX 78704 | | To the south lies the SoCo District, South Congress Avenue, with some of the city's most hip and hopping shops and eateries. Great stores line the wide sidewalks: Spanish home decorations at Mi Casa and creative costumes at Lucy in Disguise, where everything from toxic waste to Mr. Potato Head is on the list of get-ups. Magnolia Caf has good grub 24-7, with dishes highlighting fresh local produce and breads, homemade soups, fresh-squeezed juices, and a menu of feel-good favorites. | | |||||||
| Magnolia Cafe 1920 S Congress Ave Austin, TX 78704 Call (512) 445-0000 | |  For good eats in Austin any time of day, Magnolia Cafe is the place. With two locations in the city, the original at 2304 Lake Austin Blvd. (512-478-8645) and their south location on South Congress Ave., you're bound to be in close proximity to one or the other. The "SoCo" spot is always buzzing with people, and waits of 45 minutes aren't uncommon on the weekend. The air smells spicy, the walls are bright yellow, and the funky decor includes a small painted wooden dinosaur skeleton hanging from the ceiling. Breakfast food is a favorite. The menu includes omelets, morning migas (a Tex-Mex breakfast of tortillas with eggs, beans, salsa, and meat), breakfast tacos, pancakes, oats, and other selections. Meals are made using fresh local produce and locally baked bread, juices are freshly squeezed, and soups are homemade. | ||||||||
| Vespaio 1610 S Congress Ave Austin, TX 78704 Call (512) 441-6100 | |
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| Amy's Ice Cream 1301 S Congress Ave Austin, TX 78704 Call (512) 440-7488 | |
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| Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center 4801 La Crosse Ave Austin, TX 78739 Call (512) 292-4200 | |
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| Hamilton Pool Preserve 24300 Hamilton Pool Rd. Dripping Springs, TX 78620 Call (512) 264-2740 | |
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| Salt Lick BBQ 18300 FM 1826 Driftwood, TX 78619 Call (888) 725-8542 | |
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| Bella Vista Ranch 3101 Mt. Sharp Rd Wimberley, TX 78676 Call (512) 847-6514 | |
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| Wimberley Glass Works 6469 Ranch Road 12 San Marcos, TX 78666 Call (800) 929-6686 | |
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| Devil's Backbone Fischer, TX | | The "Devil's Backbone" (RR 32), a winding, up-and-down path along a ridge, offers some of the best scenic overlooks and vistas in the Hill Country. The road heads west towards the charming town of Fredericksburg, the second German settlement in Texas. Fredericksburg was established in 1846, and the German influences are still evident in the buildings, names (everything is a "Haus"), food, and culture found around town today. | ||||||||
| Pioneer Museum Complex 309 W Main St Fredericksburg, TX 78624 Call (830) 997-2835 | |
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| Fredericksburg Herb Farm 405 Whitney St Fredericksburg, TX 78624 Call (800) 259-4372 | |
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| Museum of Western Art 1550 Bandera Hwy Kerrville, TX 78029 Call (830) 896-2553 | | This hidden treasure, located near downtown Kerrville, offers a sampling of Western artwork in a variety of media such as oils, bronze, and stone. Originally built for the Cowboy Artists of America Museum in 1983, the hillside building is bright and airy while still maintaining an intimate feel. The outdoor courtyard featuring several sculptures and a variety of plants is the heart of the building and is surrounded by uncommonly beautiful veda dome ceilings. This combination of seemingly unsupported bricks and skylights is considered an art form in itself. All 28 of the veda domes in the museum were constructed onsite by three Mexican artisans. Adjacent to the courtyard, galleries display the works of top cowboy artists. A children's gallery gives youngsters a feel for the difficulties of the journey west. A back patio area features a bronze monument by Fred Fellows, stones with the handprints and boot prints of the cowboy artists, and scenic views of the area. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday, 9 AM to 5 PM; Sunday 1 PM to 5 PM; closed on Mondays, New Year's Day, Easter, Thanksgiving, and Christmas. | ||||||||
| Flying A Ranch 1919 Hwy 173 South Bandera, TX 78003 Call (830) 796-4750 | |
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| O.S.T. (Old Spanish Trail) 305 Main St Bandera, TX 78003 Call (830) 796-3836 | |
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| Arkey Blue's Silver Dollar 308 Main St Bandera, TX 78003 Call (830) 796-8826 | |
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| Guenther House 205 E. Guenther St. San Antonio, TX 78204 Call (800) 235-8186 | | A local favorite is the Guenther House. This restaurant/museum/retail store is located next to the Pioneer Flour Mill, the country's oldest continuously family-run mill, and the house was the Guenther family's private residence. The riverside home is a great place to start the day with an enjoyable breakfast followed by a tour through the rooms and store. | ||||||||
| Blue Star Arts Complex Corner of S Alamo and Probandt San Antonio, TX 78204 Call (210) 225-6742 | |  Across the street from Guenther House is another San Antonio star, Blue Star Arts Complex. The complex includes four historic warehouses developed into a mixture of arts-oriented spaces: galleries, retail stores, artists' workspaces, and design offices. This Southtown complex sits along the San Antonio River and also has its own brewery, the Blue Star Brewing Company, and performance troupe, Jump-Start Performance Company. | ||||||||
| Steves Homestead Museum 509 King William St. San Antonio, TX 78204 Call (210) 225-5924 | | The Steves Homestead museum, designated a National Historic Place in 1972, reflects the elegant and extravagant nature of the German-settled King William Historic District in which it resides. In 1876, Edward Steves, founder of the Edward Steves Lumberyard (the family-owned business continues today as Steves & Sons) built the three-story mansion in the French Second Empire and Italian villa styles. The Steves family donated the house to the San Antonio Conservation Society in 1952. The 1.6-acre grounds include well-manicured lawns and gardens, with a 16-foot outdoor fountain in the side yard, a carriage house, wash house, river house/natatorium (the city's first private indoor swimming pool), servants quarters (home of the present-day visitors center), and an artesian well. Inside the house are working electrical and phone systems (rarely found during the time the house was built), an exquisite mosaic table, a Chickering "Cocked Hat" piano, hand-decorated ceilings, Italian china and collectibles, antique furniture, family portraits, and more. The Steves Homestead is open daily from 10 AM to 4:15 PM. | ||||||||
| The Alamo 300 Alamo Plaza San Antonio, TX 78299 Call (210) 225-1391 | | Walk through the old mission church and Long Barrack where, in 1836, Davy Crockett and a small band of Texans held out for 13 days before falling to Mexican troops. Get a close-up look at a flintlock rifle used in the battle and the buckskin vest worn by the King of the Wild Frontier. The Alamo is a memorial to the people who died on March 6, 1836, in the famous battle for Texas independence. The defenders, 189 people from several countries, all died in the confrontation with centralist army of General Antonio Lopez de Santa Anna. Shortly thereafter, however, the Mexican army under Santa Ana was defeated by Sam Houston at San Jacinto. The memorial is within the original walls of the Alamo on a 4.2-acre complex, which was a former Franciscan mission known as San Antonio de Valero. Today, members of the Alamo staff give interpretive talks. The nearby Long Barrack museum displays artifacts of the battle. Operated since 1905 by Daughters of the Republic of Texas, an organization dedicated to preserving the history of Texas, the Alamo accepts no tax revenue and operates only with money from donations and from sales at the Alamo Gift Museum. More than 2.5 million people visit the Alamo each year to see what has become a symbol of courage and sacrifice, immortalized by Sam Houston's famous quote, "Remember the Alamo!" of 1836. Located in downtown San Antonio, the Alamo offers informative visits for students, educators and the general public. | ||||||||
| San Antonio Museum of Art 200 W Jones Ave San Antonio, TX 78215 Call (210) 978-8100 | | Old and new combine at the San Antonio Museum of Art. Housed in the historic Lone Star Brewing Company building (constructed in the 1880s), the renovated museum shows off a notable collection of classical antiquities; Egyptian, Asian, and Modern art; and European and American paintings and sculptures. The museum's large rooms were reconfigured to create sophisticated, intimate gallery spaces while preserving certain elements of the old brewery's original interior. There is also a temporary space that features traveling exhibits about three or four times a year. The San Antonio Museum of Art is open Tuesday 10 AM to 9 PM, Wednesday through Saturday 10 AM to 5 PM, Sunday noon to 6 PM, and closed on Mondays. The museum is closed Thanksgiving, Christmas, Easter, New Years and Fiesta Friday (the fourth Friday in April). | ||||||||
| Grass Market 303-309 W San Antonio St New Braunfels, TX 78130 Call (830) 620-9001 | |  Shoppers looking for that special something will enjoy in this quaint, off-the-beaten-path marketplace. A few small shops in cute little houses give way to the larger Huisache (pronounced "wee-satch") Grill, named after a small, scrubby tree found from the Texas Hill Country down to northern Mexico. Just down the path is the Potting Shed, a gardener's dream store, with colorful, whimsical garden accessories and more. Across the way, you'll find Princess Be, a fun, very girly shop devoted to all those pampering essentials (bath and body products, make-up bags, purses, feather boas, and lots of pink accessories) that every girl needs. The path ends at the Huisache Grill, which offers an eclectic menu reflecting the varied influences of the area. The restaurant has the feeling of a rustic lodge, with warm southwestern colors and a patio for outdoor dining. A variety of salad, sandwich, and entre choices are served, including vegetarian options: The restaurant also has a wine bar. | ||||||||
| Gruene National Historic District Gruene Rd., New Braunfels, and Hunter Rd. New Braunfels, TX 78130 Call (830) 629-5077 | | Gruene's motto says it all: "Gently resisting change since 1872." Visitors can take a step back in time at this historic Texas neighborhood. Ernst Gruene, a German immigrant, and his wife built the first house in Gruene in 1845 since land was scarce in the already-established city of New Braunfels. Their son planted the surrounding land with cotton, which became the town's number one cash crop and eventually brought more families to the area. The Gruene family continued to build numerous homes in a variety of styles, many of which are still standing. They also built a dance hall and saloon, Gruene Hall, then the center of the town's social scene and now Texas's oldest dance hall. In 1975, Gruene was placed on the National Register of Historic Places as a historic district, and new businesses were established. Today, both residents and visitors alike come together to enjoy the rich history, unique atmosphere, and exciting events of this small community. Favorites include the Gristmill River Restaurant & Bar, Gruene Hall, Gruene Mansion Inn, and numerous shops that sell everything from antiques and local wines to pottery and Texas knick-knacks. | ||||||||
| Gruene Hall 1281 Gruene Road New Braunfels, TX 78130 | | Gruene Hall, Texas's oldest dance hall, boasts vintage signs with two-digit phone numbers and the original wooden dance floor, though very worn and slightly warped these days. Next door, the Gristmill River Restaurant and Bar is housed in an old grain mill and offers excellent eats in rustic rooms. | ||||||||
| Gristmill River Restaurant 1287 Gruene Road New Braunfels, TX 78130 | | Next door to Gruene Hall, the Gristmill River Restaurant and Bar is housed in an old grain mill and offers excellent eats in rustic rooms. | ||||||||
| Millie Seaton Collection of Dolls and Toys 1104 W. Hopkins San Marcos, TX 78666 Call (512) 396-1944 | |  This one-of-a-kind private showcase of almost 9,000 dolls from all over the world spans more than three centuries of doll-making history. Millie Seaton started collecting in 1965. All three floors of the Augusta Hofheinz House, an elegant turn-of-the-century home, burst with doll displays in every corner and on every step. With space running out in the house, a newer garage apartment shows off a variety of doll houses, miniature scenes, comic strip characters, nostalgic games and toys, and new acquisitions.See doll faces of the past and present, like Barbie, Raggedy Ann & Andy, Howdy Doody, Cabbage Patch, Little Rascals, celebrities, and presidential wives, just to name a few. Darling gems are tucked away throughout these rooms, from the oldest doll (dating back some 300 years) to wax dolls of the 1850s to the tallest doll a Raggedy Ann towering more than six feet when standing and three-faced dolls with rotating heads. Assorted antiques such as a Victrola and antique desk, salesman samples of old washing machines and other appliances, musical clocks, and a "boys" room (complete with Batman, ET, and Ghostbusters) round out the collection. | ||||||||
| Wonder World Park 1000 Prospect St San Marcos, TX 78666 Call (512) 392-3760 | | This Texas Historical Site is home to a variety of educational and entertaining family-friendly attractions. Wonder World Park's main attraction is Wonder Cave, the nation's only earthquake-formed cave (rather than by water erosion, which is how most caves are created). Visitors can take 45-minute guided tours into the cave to visit its many "rooms," see and touch the Balcones fault line, and experience absolute darkness. The end of the tour takes visitors to the top of a 110-foot observation tower for an opposite point of view. Other attractions include an anti-gravity house, train ride, petting zoo, and Mystery Mountain and Wildlife Park. A cafe and gift store are on site. From June through August, Wonder World is open 8 AM to 8 PM daily. From September through May, it is open 9 AM to 5 PM Monday through Friday and 9 AM to 6 PM on Saturday and Sunday. Closed on Christmas Eve and Day. Guided tours last about 45 minutes and depart every 15 minutes in the summer and every 30 minutes in the winter. | ||||||||
Destination photos © Rand McNally/Anne Ford | ||||||||||
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Head for the Hill Country 
Vespaio, one of Austin's Italian hotspots, tempts the taste buds right at the door with a glass showcase displaying dishes brimming with yummy antipasti. The rich yellow walls and dark wood exude a warm feeling throughout the restaurant. Daily specialties, like the risotto of the day, and a diverse menu feature savory flavors and textures. Pasta is made fresh daily. A delicious white-bean spread accompanies the fresh bread. Save some room for decadent desserts, such as the chocolate mousee torte, strawberry napoleon, and gelato di giorno. Vespaio is open for dinner daily from 5:30 PM to 10:30 PM (til 10 PM, Sunday and Monday). The bar opens at 5 PM.
Rich, cold, creamy, and flavorful, Amy's ice creams are a much-loved Austin indulgence. With more than 260 flavors that rotate on and off the menu throughout the year, the choices can be overwhelming. Some of the most popular selections are the seven standard flavors that are always available: Sweet Cream, Just Vanilla, Mexican Vanilla (made from the Mexican orchid vanilla bean, which gives a sweeter and stronger vanilla taste), Coffee, White Chocolate, Belgian Chocolate, and Dark Chocolate. Seasonal and special flavors might include Cranberry, Egg Nog, Fresh Peach, Peach Ice, Pumpkin, Mango, Guinness, Peanut Butter and Jelly, Chocolate Grand Marnier, Blueberry Muffin, Boston Cream Pie, and Gingersnaps. A long list of crush-ins includes chocolate chips, cookie dough, pecans, Snickers, and granola. Fruit ices and yogurts are also available.
Some 650 species of Central Texas native plants weave a tapestry of color at the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center. The center's gardens reflect and demonstrate Mrs. Johnson's vision for protecting and restoring American landscapes and show how native plants can provide attractive and economical landscaping. Located outside of Austin, the center's distance from town makes for a peaceful visit and a chance to enjoy uninterrupted natural beauty. Birds chirp and waterfalls trickle. Butterflies flit by and hummingbirds zip through the air. The outdoor butterfly habit uses assorted plants and flowers to attract and sustain a large range of insects and butterflies.The center hosts educational programs throughout the year, and guided tours can be arranged. In addition to the gardens, the center features an observation tower, nature/hiking trails, picnic areas, a library, a visitors gallery, a cafe, and more. Biodiversity, blooms, and butterflies are bountiful at this beautiful outdoor haven.The Lady Bird Wildflower Center is open Tuesday to Saturday from 9 AM to 5:30 PM, Sunday 12 PM to 5:30 PM, and is closed Mondays except in April.
Locals flock to this historic swimming hole. The preserve is situated in an 80-foot canyon along the Pedernales River where Hamilton Creek spills over limestone outcroppings to create a 50-foot waterfall that feeds the large pool, which can be 24-34 feet at its deepest points. The waterfall is a favorite of many visitors; it may slow to a trickle, but never completely dries up. The pool maintains a near constant water level year round and gets its shape from a collapsed grotto. Swimming isn't the only pastime at the preserve. Other options include picnicking, hiking, nature study and wildlife viewing, and guided tours by the preserve staff. Tours are available Sundays at 10 AM or by appointment; call ahead to make reservations. 
Texans from near and far congregate at this barbecue joint in the tiny town of Driftwood. It's such a Texas tradition these days that there's often a line on weekends just to get into the parking lot. The owners wanted a restaurant where people could gather for a meal much like cattle gather at a salt lick. The no-frills buildings may not look like much, but the delicious down-home food definitely makes up for any lack of style. Barbecue brisket, pork ribs, and sausage are offered in heaping helpings family style or by the plate. Chicken, turkey and sandwich plates are also offered, all with sides of potato salad, cole slaw, and beans. Bread, pickles, and onions can be had by request. The meats are smoked with pecan shells and live oak, which burns slower than many other woods, and impart a rich, smoky flavor that isn't overpowering. The tangy-but-sweet barbecue sauces are all made by hand, too. Few customers pass on the homemade pecan pie and peach cobbler, served plain or a la mode. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM.
Olives in Texas? Visitors are often surprised to learn that Texas topography, soil, and weather are similar to Italy's and suitable for this Mediterranean staple. A walk through the fields at Bella Vista Ranch provides a lesson on olive trees and on weather phenomenon, such as the "Blue Northers" which bring warm air followed by cold air from the North Pole accompanied by high winds. Olives can't be eaten right off the tree the acid would burn your mouth. They have to be taken to a second stage in which they are either canned or pressed for oil and allowed to "chill." The olives from the farm's olea europaea trees are handpicked and then transported into the frantoio to make the olive oil. Find out how olive oil is made today and then try discerning the taste differences in several oils. Olive oil tasting is much like wine tasting in that there are proper techniques and distinct flavors to be identified. The ranch is open Thursday through Saturday, 10 AM to 5 PM; Sunday, noon to 4 PM; and by appointment Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday. Formal tours are given at 10 AM and 1 PM on Saturday, and at noon on Sunday. 
This Wimberley hot spot is home to beautiful hand-blown glass pieces. Marvelous modern works come to life in this ancient art form. Vases, lamps, glasses, pitchers, jewelry, and commissioned works are on display or for sale in the gallery and working studio. Educational and entertaining demonstrations are offered daily and last about 35 minutes. Open daily from 10 AM to 5 PM. Closed on Thanksgiving, Christmas, New Year's Day, and Easter. Demonstrations are given daily except on Tuesdays.
Nine historic structures on a 3.5-acre site make up the Pioneer Museum Complex on the west side of Fredericksburg, which was founded by German settlers in 1846. The Gillespie County Historical Society bought the home, smokehouse, and barn of Henry Kammlah in 1956 to begin the museum. Since then, six major structures have been added to complete the complex. The complex consists of some of the earliest authentic structures built in or near Fredericksburg, including an actual Sunday House (a one-room house in or near town which farmers and their families would stay in during their weekend trips into town), a log cabin, a bath house, and a one-room schoolhouse. A few highlights: old musical instruments, clothing, china and glassware, an early dentist's chair, a barbed wire collection in the barn, and other unusual artifacts. The museum is open Monday to Saturday 10 AM to 5 PM and Sunday from 1 PM to 5 PM.
For a little Hill Country therapy, detour to the Fredericksburg Herb Farm and enjoy the scents and colors of this 4-acre organic farm. This "herbal haven" is comprised of five gardens, a restaurant, day spa, herb shop, and bed & breakfast. Culinary and flowering ornamental herbs are harvested year-round to produce a variety of products including potpourris, wreaths, bath potions, candles, body fragrances, lotions, and soaps. Quiet Haus day spa offers aromatherapy spa services ranging from Swedish massage to sea salt body wraps and European facials. The farm's restaurant takes advantage of in-season produce and favorite herbs to create colorful, delicious meals, home-baked herb breads, and herb-laced sweets. Herb Haus B&B (closed til 2009) is a restored 1940s frame house, with two bedrooms, a kitchen, and breakfast emphasizing herbal cuisine.
The Flying A Ranch's 9,000 acres offers hunting for native Texas wildlife and exotic creatures from Europe and Africa: mouflon, oryx, ibex, dall, aoudad and more. Accommodations are available at the Lodge on San Julian Creek, located on ranch property.
The O.S.T. Restaurant has been a Bandera landmark since 1921 and is the oldest continuously operated restaurant in Bandera County. For good ol' down-home cooking, this is the place. It specializes in homestyle and Tex-Mex food, with a delicious chicken-fried steak and a long list of Mexican favorites. Breakfast specials are another popular choice, and breakfast is served around the clock. The O.S.T. is open seven days a week: Sunday 7 AM to 9 PM; Monday-Thursday 6 AM to 9 PM; Friday and Saturday 6 AM to 10 PM.
For a true taste of Texas honky-tonk, Arkey's is the spot. The Silver Dollar has been a Bandera honky-tonk institution since 1901 (it was originally called the Fox Hole), and owner/entertainer/singer/songwriter Arkey Blue has performed at the venue since 1968. Many local and well-known country music singers make appearances here, including Willie Nelson, Caesare Masse, and the Dixie Chicks. Live music is performed Friday and Saturday evenings. The atmosphere is lazy and laid back. Sawdust covers the dance floor (so it's easier to slide on the cement), neon signs light up the room, a pool table and pin ball machine get a lot of play, and the walls are littered with bumper stickers, license plates, and pictures of Arkey and friends who have performed at the bar. Arkey's is open Monday to Saturday from 10 AM to 2 AM and Sunday from 12 noon to 2 AM.